Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Tales from the road, trails, snowbanks and other terrain, as told by real live sidecar owners!

Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Sat Dec 31, 2016 11:32 pm

Not a lot on the bike front these days. Since I retired my daily commute is to the post office for the mail (3Km total). But the shop renovations have continued:
Last month I installed LED strips in my parking space and finally got around to adding another 20A circuit so I can plug in the heater in there without an extension cord (+ a couple of plugs for when I need too use tools in that area) and a couple of weeks ago I installed bi-fold doors in the opening between my parking space & Kay's and covered them with some of the bubble/foil insulation that I salvaged from the old garage doors so that when I work in there it will be cozy
LEDs in parking, bifold doors.JPG

Santa got me 4 sets of small parts drawers so I put them up and started filling them
New parts drawers.JPG

That's about it for this year. See you in 2017 :grin:
s
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Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650/Veloural)
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:09 pm

Ever have one of those weeks when a simple job ends up taking a lot longer than it should? Kay had to work on Monday so I figured that would be a good day to spend in the shop. I could take my time cleaning up Eccles' caliper, pop the front wheel off, clean up the rusty bits and pop them into the zinc plating tank while I changed the tire, putter around a bit and put it all back together on Tuesday in time to drive it over to pick up the mail (what passes for my daily commute these days).

The old tire. It hasn't caused any problems yet but I wanted to get the fresh ones on before I have to drive in any amount of snow.
old tire.JPG

The caliper was just dirty so that was easy. Next undo the axle & pop the wheel out... Well, the spacer nearest to the "head" of the axle turned with the axle so I grabbed it with vise grips to break it loose... No luck. OK, pry the right leg up a bit, pull the axle out and get the spacer free after. Again no luck, the axle wouldn't come out of the wheel. I ended up having to do this to get the wheel out. If you can't tell, the right fork leg (the one with the cap that locks the head of the axle) is raised as high as possible and the left leg (that the axle screws into) is dropped down until the tire hit the ground. It barely let the wheel & axle out.
wheel out.JPG

When I drove the axle out of the wheel (brass drift, big hammer) the bearing & dust seal came with it. I had to use the same drift & hammer plus heat to get the axle out of the spacer. At that point I decided the mail could wait until Wednesday...

I spent half of Tuesday on the phone to tech support, then a bunch of time cleaning up the axle spacers so I could plate them and setting up the plating tank. I had expected to just give them a quick dip but now I wanted to give them a good layer. After a couple of hours in the shop I needed some fresh air so I went out to move the "avalanche" (snow doesn't stay on a steel roof) from in front of the garage before Kay got home. I was just about done when my stomach started to feel queasy and Kay arrived home with the same thing only worse.

Neither of us was in great shape on Wednesday morning. Kay took the day off to recover but by afternoon I felt like doing something so I went out to the shop. Both of the bearings felt a little rough and their inner races looked pretty rusty. I had spares on hand so I didn't try to clean & grease them. I had replaced the dust seals a few years ago, even finding one to fit where the speedo drive originally was; they looked OK before I took it apart but from the look of things they had allowed water in and kept it there. When when I tried to test fit them I found that the freshly plated axle wouldn't go into the bearings so I chucked it up in the "vertical lathe" and filed & sanded most of the zinc back off. Then I changed the tire (what I started out to do in the first place), installed the new bearings (without the dust seals this time - we'll see how they last) and called it a night.

Back together today and ready to go. I put the lowers on while I was at it. And I finally got to go for the mail :roll:
New tire & lowers on.JPG

We will be away for a couple of days but I plan to start on the back tire on Sunday. That may turn into a bigger job too - the spline flange didn't look very good the last time (an o-ring failed and let dirt in) so I have to replace it and depending on what the final drive's splines look like I might switch to the spare. And of course I left the tank set up so I can plate the rear axle (if needed) & spacers too....
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:28 pm

So Monday I pulled the rear wheel off, cleaned everything up and decided not to change the tire after all. There was 10mm of tread at the TWIs when new and there is still 2mm left and the tread at the outer edges looks like new, complete with all the little hairs (happens when the bike only leans a couple of degrees). Since it took over 7500 Km to use up the first 8mm and I am averaging around 50 Km per week now that I don't have to drive to work every day I figure it should last the rest of the season.

One of the reasons I was anxious to have the wheel off was to check the splines. When I put that tire on I discovered that an o-ring had broken and road grit had found its way into the grease in the splines and ground them down quite a bit. I put the best old spline flange I had on the wheel with some used o-rings (close but not perfect) and fresh, clean grease but I had some doubt about whether those not so perfect o-rings would hold up and whether the splines were even more worn. And I have replacement final drive and spline flange that forum friends gave me (thanks again guys) ready to install. But the rings held, the grease had no signs of dirt and the splines looked just like they did last year. So I cleaned it all out, installed new o-rings (I bought a lifetime supply last fall so I won't have to use old ones again), added fresh, clean grease. I also plated & buffed the exposed ends of the axle, the spacer and the nut.

And I had it back together in time to go for the mail on Tuesday.
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Tue Jan 17, 2017 12:30 pm

I'm not sure if I mentioned it here but Mr.H's biggest problem is that the gearing is too high. The combination of a GL1000 engine (& transmission) and a GL1100 final drive results in gearing that is a little higher in 1st than the stock combination is in 2nd, which was wonderful for 13 years on 2 wheels but is really too high for use with a sidecar. On the way home from Ottawa last summer it occurred to me that if I changed to an 1100 engine I would have lower gearing and more torque, which is exactly what it needs so I started looking for one.

I posted about it on NGW and a few members there replied with people to contact or Kijiji ads they had found. One guy in Kitchener (3 hours away but not far from where our daughter lives) wanted $400 for an engine. Another (also in Kitchener) would let me have a 130,000 Km engine for $150. Then someone found a 79,000 Km parts bike on Kijiji Peterborough for $350. I got in touch with the seller and we went there on Saturday. Terry (the seller) & I disassembled it enough to lift into the back of Kay's car for the trip home.
GL1100 in CRV 1.JPG

GL1100 in CRV 2.JPG

So far I have removed the tires (makes the wheels a lot smaller) and stripped the frame for storage outside under a tarp. I have a few other projects to finish up first and then I'll get the engine on the bench so I can try to have it ready to install in the spring.
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:04 pm

Just checking in. About all I have been doing that is bike related lately is driving Eccles to the post office to get the mail (only doing that 3 days a week now that it is cold out) and running the odd errand to stores in neighbouring towns.

I am still involved with all of the projects I need to finish before I can start on it. Project #1 is making some picture frames. The weekend after Matt died both of the girls were home. Some of their friends came over and they all went over to the neighbourhood we lived in when they were kids to reminisce. The late is about 5 minutes walk from the house we lived in so we spent a lot of time there and the oldest took a bunch of pictures. Her partner works in a place that does printing for advertising; He got one of them printed 3' x 5' and they gave it to us. Last fall I had it mounted on foamcore by a local picture framing place but I had to finish putting Eccles back together and then wait until after Xmas before I could start working on the frame. I also had a pic of a train on a wooden trestle that was given to me by a family friend whose late husband was a model railroader that I also wanted to frame.
Lake photo.JPG

Picture frame stock is next to impossible to find so I spent some time at the lumber yard figuring out how to do it with available mouldings.I won't go into all of the details here but building the 2 frames turned into a 3 week project. After cutting & fitting pieces of wood (a couple of good days of work - there is some engineering involved in making a 5 foot long frame with minimum weight that will hold its own weight) I mostly worked an hour or less per day and then waited for glue or paint to dry overnight and there were a few days that Kay & I went out so I didn't work on it at all. The big pic is hanging now. I haven't decided where to put the train pic. Probably in the rec room....
Lake photo framed & hung.jpg

Due to a cutting error (5 feet is 60", not 50")(I should have used metric :dunce:) I had to buy one more piece of wood and I have enough left over for a frame for one of the paintings our oldest daughter did for us. I will probably start that this week.

Project #2 is LED floodlights. A few years ago I bought 3 outdoor 100W halogen floodlights to use inside the garage but after about 6 months of use the contacts burned out. The manufacturer sent me replacements but they did the same thing so they have been sitting in a box waiting for me to deal with them. I also have a 250W halogen work light that had the same thing happen after about a decade of use and a stand with two 150W halogen floods that still works but I figure its only a matter of time. Last fall I bought ten 20W LED Chip On Board (COB) floodlight assemblies, very neat little panels about 40 X 60 mm with integral power supply (driver) so all I have to do is mount them and solder on wires to connect to 110V. The plan is to put 1 of them in each of the 100-150W lights and 2 in the big one. I want them to last so the plan is to mount them to aluminum panels inside the housings so that the excess heat can be dissipated (no, the LEDs themselves don't produce significant heat but the power supply does). I have the plates cut and most of the holes drilled but I am stalled because the heat sink compound I ordered didn't come (the seller has re-shipped).
BTW: I like to watch bigclive.com's YouTube videos. After seeing Clive using a power meter that you just plug in and plug the load into I decided to get one for myself (under $20 on eBay). Neat. The "20W" LED that I have soldered a power cord onto for testing actually draws 23.5W, which means that the LEDs are probably pretty close to the 20W rating with the remainder going to the power supply. I also measured the LED strip lights in my parking space at 51W for both strips or about 5W per meter. Interestingly, I also measured a fixture with two 48" T8 tubes rated at 32W each and it was only drawing 53.5W. But at any rate, I figured that the LEDs on each of my frames produce about as much light as one of the fluorescent fixtures and now I know that they use less than half the power. Now that I think about it, buying the ballasts and tubes to convert the no-longer-working T12 fluorescents to T8 cost almost half as much per fixture as the LEDs for each strip did so the LEDs were a really good decision.

Project #3 is replacing the computers in my "office" (AKA computer & junk room) and in the garage shop. The one for the office (which I am using as I type this) is a refurb Lenovo from factorydirect.ca - Core Duo 3.0+3.0 Ghz with Win10 and twice as much ram as the 2.8 Ghz P4 single core with XP it replaced so it is a lot faster :cool: What really blows me away is that a fairly modern computer arrived at my door (well, I actually had to pick it up at the post office) already assembled and with Windows 10 installed and ready to use for less than Microsoft's list price for Windows 10!!! I will definitely buy from them again :yep:
The one for the shop is the one Matt was working on for himself, put together from used parts that were mostly salvaged from computers people had replaced. It has a 2.7Ghz Athlon single core processor, a bit faster than the 2.4Ghz P4 it is replacing but not nearly as quick as the Core Duo. But at least it has Win10 and, apparently, will consume about half the watts that the old one did.

I learned how to make custom Start Menu tiles with custom icons on them :cool: :cool: I also decided that this was a good time to replace the antiquated and not fully functional beta version of Paint Shop Pro 5 (released around '98) with something newer & better. A lot of people recommend Gimp so I tried it but I really didn't like it much. After shopping around for a couple of hours I found something called Paint.Net, a full function pixel graphics program (freeware) that looks like it will do just about everything I need. I have been using it for a few days and I really like it :grin: http://www.getpaint.net

And I still have to sort through the rest of Matt's stuff so we can have another antique computer sale. Between that, home renovations and Mr.H's new engine this spring & summer are going to be very busy :wilnil: I'm glad I won't have to fit in going to work too :lol:
s
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Fri Mar 10, 2017 8:26 pm

Still nothing on the bike front. The 3rd picture frame is finished. I have learned a lot more about Windows 10 and about how to back up my network drive and my computers to my backup drive. I finished the first of the LED floodlights and ran a "24 hours test" on it. It was no hotter after 24 hours than after half an hour, all the LEDs were still lit and the grommet didn't melt :mrgreen: I'll take pics when I do the rest of them (for the bottle of heat sink compound I ordered in November didn't arrive; hopefully the replacement bottle will get here soon).

I've mentioned the Dnepr I had many years ago on this forum a few times. I bought it from a fellow Christian Riders member who subsequently became a close friend. When I gave up on keeping it running (this was before the Internet) I bought my first GoldWing to pull its sidecar and gave it back to Duane. Gag gifts & awards were a big thing in CR so I copied & modified a cartoon I found in a magazine, framed it and presented it to Duane. He recently scanned it and emailed it to me with a note that he still has it hanging in his office after all these years. I cleaned it up a bit and its the wallpaper on the shop computer.

Komerade Bikeski 1000.jpg
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Sat Mar 25, 2017 3:24 pm

I just realized that I never posted the pics of the guitar that I promised a year ago. I last posted pics of it when I refurbished it 2 years ago
Not long after I finished working on it I discovered that the pickup (which someone gave me when I was a teenager - it was originally on a bracket for mounting in the sound hole of an acoustic guitar) was dying so I ordered a Chinese copy of a Fender pickup on eBay. By the time it arrived the weather was warmer and I was spending my time working on bikes so it got put on the back burner again.

In early 2016, after looking at pictures of Fender pickups on Google Images, I decided that I could angle the pickup to put the poles directly below the strings (this guitar has a very narrow neck). I loosened the strings, took all the electronics out, slipped the new pickup under the strings to figure out where it had to go and marked it on masking tape on the guitar. Then I made up a fixture from a piece of plywood and some hunks of 2x4 (lined with a clean rag) to hold the guitar securely while clamped to the table of the drill press and used a hole saw with the pilot hole drill bit removed to drill out for the new opening. After drilling I put the guitar (still in the fixture) on the workbench and used a hammer & chisel to smooth out the hole a bit. Here is the new pickup sitting in the hole. If you look carefully you can see that there is a sort of flange on one side to support the shielded wire where it attaches to the extremely fine wire that the coil is wound from. The shape of the hole would have had to be pretty close to what it was even if I had started from scratch.
pickup in hole.JPG

Then I realized that if I used the original jack in the original hole the plug would hit the pickup. OK, I would need to enlarge the pickup/wiring hole and make another hole in the side for the jack, but what about the old hole - should I just cover it with a plate? After thinking about it for a while I decided to use that hole to add a tone control. I didn't want the jack where the plug's cover/handle would stick straight down right next to the knob but if I used a long thread 1/4" jacks I could mount it in a hole drilled directly into the body. AND I could drill that hole at an angle so that the plug's handle pointed away from everything else. Of course, that required enlarging the hole in the body even more. I also decided to try putting springs under the revised whammy bar to reduce the effort required to stretch the strings and that it needed guards to keep the knobs from being turned accidentally when it rubs against me while I play it.

The wiring. I also figured out a way to ground the strings, bridge &c.
Wired up.JPG

And final assembly. Note that the guard on the volume knob actually protrudes slightly farther than the knob. And the guards just fit inside the case I made for it all those years ago.
The 3 springs in the holes under the whammy have different spring rates with the weakest under the end near the handle and the strongest away from it to reduce the tendency of the bar to twist instead of lifting the lower frequency strings. After a bit of experimentation (the first ones I tried were so strong the whammy lifted the strings off of the bridge) I ended with ones that work pretty well.
Assembled (front).JPG

Another view showing the recessed/angled jack (inset with a cord plugged into it) and also showing the guard better. The guards are inserted into holes drilled as close to the back as possible with the intention that they will effectively increase the width of the back by almost 50%, reducing the tendency of the guitar to roll about its long axis while being played as well as preventing the knobs from being turned when they rub against my clothing.
Assembled (side).jpg

Matt died a couple of days after I took the last pics and with everything going on it sat waiting for me to change the strings and re-attach the strap until the end of January. It actually sounds pretty decent, even better with the echo pedal that I bought a few weeks ago. Now I need to start practicing regularly.....
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Fri May 05, 2017 11:48 am

Still nothing new on the bike front. I haven't driven Eccles enough for it to need anything more than topping off the oil. I had the bench cleared off and thought I would be able to get Mr.H's new engine on it but right now it is piled high with LED ceiling lights that I bought on eBay that aren't as described (they are supposed to be 30W but my meter says 14 and they aren't bright enough). I should have a partial refund today (which will cover the cost of the parts to bring them up to spec) and then I can move them elsewhere until I can install them. After that I can start working on the engine but I have a couple of household projects that I need to use the garage for before I can start taking bikes apart in there.

BTW: The 12W PIR lights I bought for the hallway are a great success. They produce more light than the ones they replaced (one 60W incandescent and one 13W CFL) and we are getting used to them turning on & off automatically, which will save a lot more power. I have ordered more for the entryways and the downstairs hallway and when I install them I will eliminate the lightswitches.

I finished converting the halogen lights to LED. I won't go into all of the details (this is supposed to be about sidecars & bikes, after all) but here are a few pics and I'll provide more info if people ask for it.
In process: LEDs mounted on aluminum panels, mounting holes all drilled, ready for final assembly
LED floods 2.JPG

The finished products. It was an interesting project that made the old lights useful again and didn't cost much but if I had to pay myself for the labour I could have bought new ones for less.
LED floods 3.jpg

The first two mounted over the garage doors. The lights that were there before matched the marine type light over the side door of the garage. They were OK but I I often set up the Workmate just outside the garage to hold pieces I am cutting, grinding &c and ended up forgetting to turn the lights off when I was done because they weren't noticeable from inside the garage. The new ones will not only provide more light for 25W (measured) than the old ones did for 60W but they shine on the edge of the garage floor enough that I should be able to see that they are on too.
LED floods over garage doors.JPG

After dark. You can see that the floods light up the ground much better than the bulbs in "marine" style fixtures.
Lights on house 25 Apr 2017.JPG

Some time during the summer I want to replace the marine type lights over the side door of the garage and the front door of the house with 2 more of the LED floods, mounted as high up in the corners as possible. The old Moon Rays lights along the wall are old & tired so I think I'll replace them with 12V LED panels mounted inside the marine type lights.
s
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Tue May 30, 2017 4:01 pm

LED lights update: The LED floods on the front of the garage are great. I have bought the stuff for mounting 2 more over the front door & garage side door but I haven't installed them yet. I have now installed the motion sensor lights in both entryways, the upstairs & basement hallways and the laundry room, eliminating 11 light switches in the process. The future is here!!

I have started working on Mr.H's new engine and started a thread about it on NGW https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=63232 so I won't post all the tech stuff & pics here.

I finally used my eBay endoscope/borescope to look inside the cylinders and saw orange in 2 of them so I pulled the heads (fortunately, it isn't deep enough to need honing). The rear cover gasket looked like it had been seeping oil so I removed the cover and while it is apart I removed the timing chest (I will be using the GL1000 type Dyna S ignition mounted on the rear of the left cylinder head) and made a plate to cover the hole.
timing chest plate.jpg

With any luck I will place my parts order with Lindsay Cycle tomorrow and when that arrives I will be able to put it together.
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Rninet » Fri Jun 02, 2017 8:54 pm

Thanks for the link . I will be following along , I like motor build stuff. I would like to build a gold wing someday . Great bikes with lots of potential . but for now I will live vicariously through build :popcorn:
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Tue Jun 06, 2017 8:14 am

Bent Rod.JPG

Note the rod nearest to the primary chain. 3 of the pistons were flush with the mating surface of the block at TDC and that one was about 3mm lower. With any luck friend from NGW, who is currently in the US visiting other NGW members will be bringing me a replacement when he returns to Toronto. All of the other parts I need should be here this week so hopefully I'll be able to start putting it back together as soon as I have the rod.

I am currently working on a brush guard cage for the riding mower. We have several large fir trees that I have to cut the grass underneath and until now that has always meant going as slow as possible and lifting low hanging branches so I can duck under them. Hopefully the cage will deflect the branches so I can safely drive under them.
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Wed Jun 28, 2017 11:45 am

All of my projects seem to be moving slowly but steadily right now. All of the parts for the engine are here. Honda marks connecting rods with a number for the diameter of the big end bore and a letter for weight (the ones in this engine are 2D). I have never replaced a rod before so I didn't realize that the replacement rod had to have the same weight marking until the "new" one had arrived and I looked through the section of the manual about checking the bearings with Plastigage and read "When replacing a connecting rod, be sure to use a new rod having the same weight code."

Sometimes you get lucky. The replacement one is also 2D, which means that not only does its weight match the originals but I should be able to use the bearing from the old one. I have Plastigaged the old bearing in the new rod + the other 3 bearings and they are all OK so now I can put it back together. When I get time to get back to it.

The mower cage is built and tested and found 2 problems: 1) Any branch that is facing me pokes into the opening in front of me so I still have to slow right down but at least now when I push the branches above my head I don't have to hold them there. I was thinking of adding some bars and bolting on a small piece of Lexan I have but our daughter's boyfriend said he can get me a piece of clear acrylic big enough to make a windshield for the whole opening. 2) While driving under one of the trees the front end suddenly started rising :shock: I should have tromped the brake really hard and shifted it into reverse but before I could figure out what was going on and react I was on my back with the mower pointing straight up and as it got there it stalled (I figure the gas in the carb ran back into the tank). It came to rest with the cage supporting it and no damage so at least the cage is strong enough to act as a roll frame in a pinch. It turns out that's what ​happens
​ ​when you drive a 57" high mower under a branch that comes off the tree at 56" :oops:
After that I removed the cage to paint it and won't re-install it until I have the windshield​. And before then I will spend some time in the yard with my chainsaw and tape measure :roll:

I've mentioned the 2 sheds in our yard before. A couple of years ago we replaced the wooden floor of the one Mr.H winters in with a concrete pad and this year its the garden shed's turn for some attention. Between them being hit by people backing the riding mower out and the sliders they hang on being crappy plastic, the doors on the garden shed are in sad shape and no longer slide (all 4 sliders are broken). When I built them (15 years ago IIRC) it was cheaper to buy three 8x10 steel shed kits and "kitbash" them into two 10x10s so I have a few parts left over, including some unmolested doors. I bought some little nylon roller wheels with ball bearings and nut hubs (made for shower doors) and sandwiched pieces of 1/8" flat steel between pairs of the wheels (2 assemblies per door) to hang the doors from; They roll nicely in the original track​ and​ should far outlast the original crappy plastic sliders so I should never need to do this again.​ But with the original construction the wheels would hit the points of the screws that attach the rest of the shed to the track (which doubles as the front supporting member over the doorway). So I bought a couple of 5' lengths of 1" galvanized angle, welded them end to end, cut it to length and drilled a lot of holes in it. When I put the shed back together it will be like this:
Shed Door Hangers.gif

I have the new doors (with extra reinforcement) assembled & ready to install as soon as I have have a couple of dry days (Weather Network says Sunday & Monday).

I have also gutted the basement bathroom in preparation for renovating it and I found a nice insulated steel door on Kijiji to replace the wooden one on the side of the garage that has started to fall apart. I'm beginning to wonder how I ever found time to go to work....
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ImageCurd #157 - Official CURD Cheapskate & Vice-Commissar, Kawartha Lakes Region
Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650/Veloural)
Click here to visit my blog Click here to order CURD patches & stickers
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: Sidecar Bob's o-tobai-kol'aska and o-tobai-sajdkára blog

Unread postby Sidecar Bob » Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:29 am

Update: A month has gone by and I haven't touched the engine except to move parts of it out of the way so a new window could be installed in the garage shop (short version of long story: We had 7 windows replaced; the other 16 were already good windows). A lot of furniture & junk that hadn't been touched in years had to be moved so the installers could get at them and during the process I decided to make some permanent changes that involve building & refinishing furniture. I also have to paint the rest of the windows & doors before their wooden frames begin to rot (I already had to repair one).

It is August now. I have a lot of home repairs &c that need to be done while it is warm out. We are not planning to go anywhere that I need the GoldWing for. Since Eccles has only done about 3,000 Km since last fall it is in good shape and won't need any repairs that will take it off the road for more than a day or 2 at a time and if I have to I can get the 'Wing out of storage and drive it as it is.

I think I am going to leave the new engine on the back burner while I concentrate on all the other stuff. If it doesn't rain today I'll start building a scaffold to use while I paint windows.

BTW: The mower cage works well and I have installed all of the LED floodlights.

s
ImageCurd #157 - Official CURD Cheapskate & Vice-Commissar, Kawartha Lakes Region
Summer - Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) Winter - The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650/Veloural)
Click here to visit my blog Click here to order CURD patches & stickers
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Sidecar Bob
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Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario - between Lindsay and Lake Simcoe

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